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We use wiring diagrams in lots of diagnostics, in case we aren't careful, they can on occasion bring us to generate decisions which aren't accurate, be responsible for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for your replacing parts which aren't defective, and even just missing a fairly easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram necessary to support a certain repair procedure is roofed within that article or a link is provided to the correct SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For instance, the wiring diagram for your Ford EEC-IV system might be found in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system may be a part of ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the actual vehicle manufacturer, along with the wiring diagram to have an anti-lock brake system can be found in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the particular manufacturer.
Inside my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave this short troubleshooting example by which I often went a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. When a device—say, an electrical motor—isn't working, first evaluate if voltage is reaching it if the switch that powers the system is turned on. If voltage is present on the device's positive terminal, test for continuity relating to the wire towards the device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of your car, and so the negative battery terminal). If it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to carefully consider an increased resistance failure. When the voltage drop test shows not an issue, the set up is toast.