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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, but when we are not careful, they can sometimes bring us to produce decisions aren't accurate, resulted in wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for your replacing parts that aren't defective, and even missing a fairly easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram important to support a given repair procedure is included within that article or the link is supplied to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. As an example, the wiring diagram for any Ford EEC-IV system might be found in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for any cruise control system may be found in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the actual vehicle manufacturer, and also the wiring diagram on an anti-lock brake system could possibly be a part of BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
Around my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave this quick troubleshooting example wherein I oftentimes tried a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If the device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first determine if voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the system is turned on. If voltage is present for the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between your wire towards device's negative terminal and ground (first the body of your vehicle, and therefore the negative battery terminal). Whether or not it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to carefully consider an increased resistance failure. In case the voltage drop test shows no problem, the set up is toast.