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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, when we're not careful, they can now and again lead us for making decisions that aren't accurate, be a catalyst for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs with the replacing parts who are not defective, and often missing an effective repair.
Today, the wiring diagram essential to support a particular repair procedure is roofed within it or a keyword rich link is provided to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. One example is, the wiring diagram for just a Ford EEC-IV system may very well be incorporated into ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system may very well be a part of ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the actual vehicle manufacturer, as well as wiring diagram for the anti-lock brake system might be included in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
At my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a short troubleshooting example in which I often tried a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If the device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first evaluate if voltage is reaching it if your switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between the wire towards the device's negative terminal and ground (first the body of the car, therefore the negative battery terminal). Whether or not it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check out a high resistance failure. In case the voltage drop test shows no issue, the device is toast.