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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, however, if we aren't careful, they can now and again lead us to generate decisions which aren't accurate, encourage wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs to the replacing parts that aren't defective, and occasionally missing a simple repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support a certain repair procedure is protected within it or a hyperlink is supplied to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For example, the wiring diagram for your Ford EEC-IV system could be built into ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for just a cruise control system may be contained in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the exact vehicle manufacturer, as well as wiring diagram to have an anti-lock brake system may be built into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
Within my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how try using a multimeter), I gave this short troubleshooting example through which I often went a multimeter to confirm that voltage was present. If a device—say, an electric motor—isn't working, first evaluate if voltage is reaching it if your switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present for the device's positive terminal, test for continuity relating to the wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first the body of your vehicle, and so the negative battery terminal). If it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to pay attention to a high resistance failure. If your voltage drop test shows no problem, the system is toast.