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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, but if we're not careful, they can now and again bring us to produce decisions that are not accurate, trigger wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for any replacing parts who are not defective, and sometimes even missing an effective repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support confirmed repair procedure is roofed within it or a hyperlink is supplied to the suitable SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. As an example, the wiring diagram to get a Ford EEC-IV system may very well be found in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for the cruise control system may be found in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the exact vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram for an anti-lock brake system may very well be found in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
Within my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave a short troubleshooting example by which I often went a multimeter to make sure that that voltage was present. If your device—say, an electrical motor—isn't working, first determine if voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present at the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between wire on the device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of the car, while the negative battery terminal). If this passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check out a higher resistance failure. If the voltage drop test shows no problem, the device is toast.