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We use wiring diagrams in lots of diagnostics, but if we are really not careful, they can sometimes lead us to create decisions that are not accurate, resulted in wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs to the replacing parts who are not defective, and often missing a basic repair.
Today, the wiring diagram needed to support a particular repair procedure is included within that article or a link is provided to the proper SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. As an example, the wiring diagram for just a Ford EEC-IV system may be included in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system could possibly be contained in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the specific vehicle manufacturer, and also the wiring diagram with an anti-lock brake system might be included in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the exact manufacturer.
Within my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a shorter troubleshooting example by which I oftentimes tried a multimeter to confirm that voltage was present. If a device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first see whether voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between your wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of your car, so the negative battery terminal). If this passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to carefully consider a high resistance failure. When the voltage drop test shows not a problem, the set up is toast.