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We use wiring diagrams in a number of our diagnostics, but if we aren't careful, they can now and again bring us to make decisions which are not accurate, trigger wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for that replacing parts who are not defective, or even missing a basic repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support a given repair procedure is roofed within that article or the link is provided to the suitable SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. As an example, the wiring diagram for a Ford EEC-IV system could be included in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for just a cruise control system may very well be built into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the precise vehicle manufacturer, and also the wiring diagram with an anti-lock brake system may be contained in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
At my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave this quick troubleshooting example by which I used a multimeter to ensure that voltage was present. If a device—say, a motor—isn't working, first assess if voltage is reaching it once the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between wire to your device's negative terminal and ground (first our body of the car, and so the negative battery terminal). Whether or not it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check for an increased resistance failure. If your voltage drop test shows no problem, the device is toast.