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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, but if we aren't careful, they can now and again bring us in making decisions that aren't accurate, trigger wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for any replacing parts which are not defective, and occasionally missing an easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram necessary to support the repair procedure is included within it or a keyword rich link is supplied to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For example, the wiring diagram for just a Ford EEC-IV system may very well be built into ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system could be built into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the exact vehicle manufacturer, as well as the wiring diagram with an anti-lock brake system may very well be found in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
Around my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave this short troubleshooting example in which I oftentimes tried a multimeter to make sure that that voltage was present. If a device—say, an electric powered motor—isn't working, first evaluate if voltage is reaching it in the event the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present in the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first your body of the car, and therefore the negative battery terminal). If it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check for a top resistance failure. Should the voltage drop test shows not an issue, the system is toast.