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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, but when we aren't careful, they can occasionally lead us to create decisions which are not accurate, trigger wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for your replacing parts that are not defective, or even missing an easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram needed to support a certain repair procedure is protected within it or a keyword rich link is provided to the correct SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For instance, the wiring diagram for any Ford EEC-IV system could possibly be included in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for any cruise control system might be found in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the actual vehicle manufacturer, as well as the wiring diagram a great anti-lock brake system might be found in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the particular manufacturer.
Inside my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave a short troubleshooting example where I often went a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If the device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first determine whether voltage is reaching it when the switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present in the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between your wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first the entire body of the car, and then the negative battery terminal). Whether or not this passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to carefully consider a top resistance failure. If your voltage drop test shows not an issue, the device is toast.